Yaroslavna Lasytsya

"Sakura" comes into bloom on my skin with the rose-almond note, and a glimpse of an amaretto, preventing the scent from being too infantile or cloyingly sweet. I suppose this is what Francois Demachy envisaged as a Japanese cherry blossom. The green note comes later (there you have my nose doing a number on me again) with a LOTV-like facet. I do not complain as LOTV (lily-of-the-valley) is one of my all time favourite flowers and an avatar of the youthful spring. The heart becomes creamy and white floral, with fresh accords, and rose almost invisible, drowned in the tree blossoms' petals. The fragrance is light and indulgent, with skin close projection and beautiful undertones, glistening through the composition. Despite its sweet aroma, it is neither heavy nor suffocating, and the sugary note supplied by the rose is airy and unimposing. Mimosa is very nicely done, very realistic and not confined to its usual powdery-only facet. It is yellow, and fuzzy, and cute, blending and contrasting very well with delicate violet. Musk creates a light and fresh base, holding the florals together, like a white ribbon around the bouquet. "Sakura" should applied in several layers, if one wants a stronger projection and sillage, but even then it will not be overpowering or selfish. It is a most versatile fragrance for any time of the day, year and occasion, and can be tuned up or down at one's whim and pleasure. This is why I always have it in my travel bag - it never disappoints or feels out of place. This is not a fragrance of particular complexity, revolutionary or requiring astuteness to particular notes and styles. It is exceptionally easy, democratic even, transcending all ages and trends, feminine and joyous, and pretty. "Sakura" is not about geishas or femme fatale, but she is about the spring time in Japan (or any other country), with blooming flowers and trees, golden sun in azure skies, joy of life and purity of spirit. It makes one's step lighter, eyes shinier and smile happier. It isa bout that moment in time when everything is perfect.

"Oeillet Pourpre" (Purple Carnation) is one of the undervalued gems of the Guerlain's L'Art & La Matiere line. it is one of the smoothest and expensive sounding leather and wood unisex blends. Top note is a clove sweetened by pear. Its spicy character in unmistakable and golden pear adds a smooth delicacy to it. Carnation blooms on their background, elegant and expressive, reminiscent of the decadence of the roaring 20s, when she was in vogue and on everyone's dressing table. In this fragrance it is delicately spicy and slightly powdery, not a cold red, but a deeper, magenta-like hue, with burgundy streaks across the petals. benzoin warms the heart of the composition and lifts carnation to the new level, helping it to open up in a new spectrum, contrary to popular opinion this flower being past its prime and sounding vintage and stale. Here we see the genius of Guerlain - they took a flower that many have forsaken and brought it back to life in a completely different "attire", sound and expression. Vanilla amplifies the sweetness of the heart very lightly, at the same time allowing smokey suede (I know that the pyramid says leather, but the execution is so warm and velvet-like, that sueded is the truest sensation I get) and light wood serve as a backdrop for carnation blooms. "Oeillet Pourpre" is what I would call a true solifloral - as there is only one flower present in the entire composition, and it is presented ever so masterfully and uniquely that one feels as carnation has been rediscovered all over again as a lost continent or planet in the vastness of the olfactory floral universe. The scent is warm and seductive. Projection is very good, and extra sprays will create a notable sillage, if one so desires. When it melts into the skin after some hours, it brings up Tamara de Lempicka "Reclining Nude I" from 1925, with the woman in a languid pose, half way between dreaming and awareness, of effortless sexuality of her bare skin and free falling blonde curls. Decadent. Classic. Irresistible. "Oeillet Pourpre"

"Iris de Syracuse" opens up with a strong black pepper note, which may feel somewhat confusing and liquorice-like because of mandarin orange wrapped around it. Pear is too green to hold its own, and only hints of it exist through slightly honeyed sweetness. Iris steps in pretty fast, powdered by heliotrope. They "push" the pepper off the stage and this is when composition starts becoming rather unique and interesting. Iris is a cool blue and heliotrope undertone does not make it warmer, but pepper does. And now that pepper is no longer domineering, the fragrance is quite beautiful and superbly delectable. Jasmine, like the pear, is not pronounced and is detectable by its indolic flashes of gold (it is more visible during the summer period, adding its own signature sweetness and taming the pepper furthermore). White musk is a solid base, well rounded by vanilla, creating a subtle and elegant background without interfering with the heart notes, adding some freshness, which makes "Iris de Syracuse" a year-round wearable perfume as well as a solid unisex. Despite its simplicity, the scent is unmistakably original and nothing else comes to mind that may compare anywhere close to its signature. Pepper accord creates a great twist on otherwise "old classic" of iris, heliotrope and musk, justifying its name as the Port of Syracuse was the at the cross roads of the West and Orient and was full of luxurious spices, colours and fabrics. "Iris de Syracuse" has a restrained projection and is great for both close encounters as well as going out. It lasts at least 6 - 8 hours on my skin, and its notes' transitions are most enjoyable to behold. To me, - it is a perfect niche classic - its very own character and twist, quiet luxury evoking the opulence and mysticism of the ancient history.