Jasmine Musk opens with a light citrus-like zest, which briefly assumes anis undertone and then morphs into spiced vetiver. The metamorphosis is quite an intriguing one especially that neither citrus, nor anis or spices are listed as official notes. Jasmine itself opens the heart, ylang-ylang and orris root make the composition vintage-leaning, nicely rounded and powdery (I am thinking "Joy" by Jean Patou, reduced by a factor of 20 in its loudness/potency). Personally I quite like the vintage expression of jasmine, it being classy and grown up, but in interpretation of Tom Ford, - perfectly suitable for day wear in different surroundings. Projection is confident but moderated, not a skin scent, but not a scent bubble either. It is just enough to being noticed and admired, without being overpowering or annoying. Sillage is perfectly adequate. On me, Jasmine Musk become skin scent in around 6 hours with lasting power of up to 9 hours (depending on the season, - it lasts longer in summer). Sandalwood and vetiver prevent florals becoming too sweet and feminine and I see this fragrance wonderfully unisex, becoming an expression or signature of its wearer. Amber follows the woods, adding its signature warm glow and grounding the scent. Neither vanilla nor labdanum are pronounced and distinct during the perfume's active phases (unless it is summer, when vanilla's note is more distinct). Vanilla is mostly felt in the dry down, and its blending with labdanum and amber, creating an impression of an oriental musk, powdery, warm and etherial. Personally I am always amused by the ability of perfumers to create a scent/note without actually having that particular ingredient in the composition. I suppose this is an exercise in Haute Perfumery exhibiting the skills and talents of the creator(s). The skin scent is tender and classic, no surprises there and it lasts a great deal of time. I would not call Jasmine Musk as groundbreaking or innovative, but it is definitely a modern classic, elegant, well balanced and beautifully executed multifaceted and versatile scent.
Jasmine Musk
Tom Ford's Jasmine Musk (2009, Calice Becker) opens with a surprising, bright citrus lift and a fleeting hint of anise that beautifully segues into a subtly spiced vetiver effect. The heart of this sophisticated fragrance belongs to lush jasmine, expertly blended with ylang-ylang and orris to create a powdery, vintage-leaning floral accord. Sandalwood and vetiver anchor this unisex woody-floral-musk, perfectly balancing the natural sweetness. Amber warms the base, keeping the vanilla and labdanum from taking over, though that vanilla does pop nicely on hotter days. Settling into the drydown, the perfume reveals a soft, orientalized musk that feels warm and delicately diffused rather than heavy. Expect moderate projection and a controlled but noticeable sillage. Skin wear shifts to an intimate scent bubble after six hours, with a total longevity of around nine hours. Jasmine Musk ultimately stands as a polished, contemporary scent, marrying modern sensibilities with classic floral elegance for serious versatility.