aad de gids

Carnal Flower Eau de Parfum

Editions De Parfums Frédéric Malle

92 /100

2 SPRAYS(8h)

agreeing fully with the previous reviewer Angela L DiScala, she surmises it brilliantly. this is foremost a Green Perfume. I have it in my collection since 2005 and nevertheless didn't much came around to wear it while I just adored it and still do. this is also a heavily mentholated Tuberose and that gives reminescences to Serge Lutens Tuberuese Criminelle. of course the Tuberose is a 'yes' or 'no' flower. I think it radiates the full force ferocity of the White Flowers in her own, undeniable way. the white flowers all give off their indolic sides and this can really mean that they either 'stink' or emanate an interesting, deep falling tone of sex and longing, especially when giving off indoles to the 'Filth' degree, which I love, but is not everyones cup of tea. Angela L DiScala opened my eyes to the fact how green this perfume really is. but Dominique Ropion wouldn't be D.R. it he hadn't snown his excellent take on Flowers in general, be it the satanic White Flowers or the Full-on Baroque asphyxiating Roses. it surely is a memorable perfume. it also contains Jasmine - , Tuberose- and Orange Blossoms Absolutes so surely isn't a wallflower. it also contains Salicylates which I didn't knew it did. so I searched and found this: "'Salicylates are essential synthetic and natural aroma chemicals widely used in perfumery to provide "solar," balsamic, and soft floral notes. They are the foundation of classic white flower accords and serve as critical fixatives and blenders that add warmth and volume to a fragrance.". I guess it gives the Richness whereas the Tuberose can be quite abrasive. it is just a fine, Memorable perfume which truly highlights the Tuberose Flower from all sides and as such, will find equally its admirers as adversaries.

Rush

Gucci

93 /100

3 SPRAYS(8h)

this has always been one of my favorite perfumes, ever. after Envy (1997) which had a kind of Calvin Klein Eternity vibe, and from that perfume I had the Edt, Edp (black bottle) and parfum (all slitzing glass within perspex box) I found Rush even more compelling. what was there what not to love ? it of course was also the Glitzy Edition of Flacon and Cellophane, Advertisements and the whole Tom Ford esthetics (which I elsewhere summed up in 'the Master of Sinister Glamour, or Lush Louche'), and his fashions for Gucci plus later for YSL (which Karl Lagerfeld propagated still before Yves had died, in sharp formulations he exuded that Tom Ford was brilliant) and at the same time the start-up for his own Brand. so it was the flashy 'bottle' and ditto perfume ! Tom Ford could make you want something and he succeeded. Rush I had at least twice and Rush2, which was less my cup of tea, but I had to have it to see them next to each other. instant Futurism. Envy for men had an absolutely fabulous bottle but as the queer half of Boy-Twins I never w(h)ore men's perfumes. that was for my straight brother who went all Creed and Chanel and Guerlain. with Rush the Gardenia almost ate you alive. that is a topper. further Freesia, Peach, Roses and Jasmine. Peach being one of the few Fruits I can dissect from a fragrance. and it was somptuous. the Patchouli is kind of a Tom Ford benchmark. his perfume White Patchouli is also to die for. (2008) twice I went into an Operating Theater with White Patchouli on my pulse and in the nape of my neck, and as a Nurse for 45 years, it went through. as also the Lady Nurses said: "Oh what is that gorgious smell ?" and no one made the association that you daren't go fully made-up into the Operating Room ... then Rush carries Vanilla and Vetiver to round it all up. I guess the onslaught of White Flowers plus Rose did me in. that is what happens with Tom Fords perfumes (while for Gucci, plus Nu for YSL (2001), and his own Black Orchid (2006), White Patchouli, Black Orchid perfume (2020), Jasmin Rouge (2011), Orchid Soleil (2016), Sahara Noir (2013) and Violet Blonde (2011). further Gucci by Gucci (2007), Gucci Edp (2002) and Rush2 (2001) (Time Flies). I had acquired all these perfumes and I guess Gucci Rush has the best and propelled the clearest memories. being the White Flower Bomb and to my amazement composed by Michael Almairac, a brilliant perfumer. Demna is doing great for Gucci, Haider Ackermann for 'Tom Ford' but he, Tom, will always have a place in my heart. his fashion was a straight propulsion from 'Lagerfeld Studio' (1990s) and the Versaces.

Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang

Estēe Lauder

95 /100

3 SPRAYS(8h)

this is a spectacular perfume. if I now still have the two bottles from 2007 and 2008 from Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia respectively, and Amber Ylang Ylang from Estée Lauder I see the level of thís perfume is slightly lower than the equally exquisite Tuberose Gardenia. if there is Rose in a perfume, it reaches me. yet the named Perfume Flower is also an all- encompassing Flower with the Narcotic Seduction of all White Flowers (while a vivid yellow) and towards slight Indolic Decay. Rose AND Ylang then, both flourish within the Arena while the Damascenones and Indoles are thrown around. this is the Witches' Hour. the other ingredients of course support this heavy, heady and bewitching concoction. a Bergamot to ensure a quasi-sour opening. Geranium and Vanilla to support the Regal Floralcy of this venerated perfume. Incense, Cinnamon, Amber & Sandelwood place it next to the Sultriest Perfume I ever encountered: Gale Hayman Beverly Hills (1990). this was already the case with 'Tuberose Gardenia'. I clearly remember walking enlightened with a friend through the isles of the Chic Warehouse in the Netherlands 'de Bijenkorf' (the Beehive) Smashed and I guess, Stoned from these Heady Perfumes. this was totally my Cup of Tea. the Selective and Supreme design of the flacons with extraordinary sophisticated packagings only made this Promotion digging deeper in my heart (and purse). now again, having spritzed the perfume since a decade on my arm, its lovely and Super Voluptuous Radiation reaches my nostrils and the alluringly fumes embed themselves into my emotions. it is often not 'Mémoire Involontaire' with me, with perfumes. I seem to go straight forward, always. this again, a perfume which I surely remember, has such a Contemporaneity and Actuality whereas the Reminiscences are lively and encouraging. yet my decisionistic nature just says 'yes' again. ('Just Say No'.) Estée Lauder is one of my most Coveted Perfume Houses, along with Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Gale and Fred Hayman Beverly Hills Giorgio and all their derivatives. Bijan Beverly Hills. and as such, yes, this athmosphere is certainly coveted in spraying this Divine Perfume again.