Soir De Lune

I distinctly remember where I first smelled Sisley's perfume 'Soir de Lune' [SDL]: it was at the southernmost tip of the Netherlands (when you feature 'Holland' it is as if you characterise the US with 'Ohio', Holland are just two provinces). Now in such very small country, peasize, nevertheless with 18 million inhabitants, this "southernmost" is three hours of a trainride. But there it was where I smelled SDL in its year of conception: 2006. I was immediately heady smitten and I guess proffered the hefty money to buy a flacon the following week. I also remember where I sniffed 'Eau du Soir' for the first time and it could also have been in the year of its birth (1999). I immediately acquired there a full flacon with the thought 'we will see how I come through the month (food) if I only have this unbelievable sophisticated perfume'. Perhaps some paradox is that these two ‘sister’ perfumes immediately bear resemblance in the opening and as it later would turn out: it became the Sisley signature. For as well EDS as SDL it is the unbelievable, nostril clearing of oakmoss which lends this, those perfumes that sensation of deftness, luxury, Madison Ave, Avenue Montaigne and Bond Street "I feel like a million bucks", just like with "Chanel No 19", "Joy", "Knowing" , "Calèche", the original "Miss Dior" and "Mme Rochas" do. In the oakmoss you get black pepper, patchouli and coriander. I must say in Sisleys SDL the rose is well hidden in the enduring first onslaught while it comes superrefined at the fore only after a while. (I see this characteristic here sometimes referred to as 'well blended'.) Is the rose a refined yet well profiled fellow traveler, the Iris fulfills its role in the classical sense as a demure background to which predominantly spices, pepper and the neverending oakmoss roar. I tend to never agree with Luca Turin but I can imagine that this could be an obstruction of his', experiencing it as a very persevering forestry, woody perfume sparkled alive and tittilating with greeneries and herbal pungency so strong. And it is the same with EDS. But notwithstanding they doggedly keep winning me over. They appeal, and this also is a paradox, not in the least for such prestige skincare brand, both to old money hauteté and very basal. forest floor earthiness, even our ancient crotch sniffing habits all overhazed by 'culture' (well) but the hyenic, canine, feline instinct stays carefully lockered up in a gilded box, not to be absent.

I’d read so much about this fragrance and finally managed to buy a partially used bottle at a good price. Moonlit Eveningis a vintage leaning chypre composition, blending nostalgia with a subtle harmony of notes. The opening is spicy and citrusy, I can clearly detect pepper oil and nutmeg. After a while, a floral heart emerges, the fragrance is beautifully blended, making it difficult to pick out individual notes. The base is mossy and earthy, enriched with honey and a generous dose of patchouli. Unfortunately, it’s the patchouli that takes centre stage here, heavy and cellar like, and that’s a style I simply don’t enjoy in fragrance. Longevity is around eight hours, with subtle, moderate projection. I’ll be passing this bottle on, as I don’t think I’ll ever warm up to this interpretation of patchouli.