having an older (I assume if not from the 1990s, then ca 2000) version of the Luxe Vaporisateur of 3oz90mL Edt, and while already reviewed it twice, this morning I was again pleasantly surprised to spritz this fantastic perfume on my pulse and in the nape of my neck. while it is an Edt, it has all the characteristics of an Extrait. this is in several ways possible. because it is already such a heavy, hefty perfume. and because it was left on its own devices inmidst what slowly (and unintentionally) became a Perfume Collection of 299 Bottles. I also have a back-up [Re-fill for the Luxe Vaporisateur] which must be as old. when you smell the initial smell it is its apparent richness and complexity with sweet, balsamic, the pissy notes of Civet unmistakenbly, intensely Floral (and to me a Ravishing Rose), spicy and woody, powdery and ambery and mossy mingling of pure 'Perfumity'. 'following' Fragrantica I now do know and realise that there are as many Tastes and Prevalences as there are people. but if I had spritzed on for instance Cool Water, Boss Woman [if it is called such], Light Blue or ANY perfume from Dyptique, Penhaligon's, Lorenzo Villorezi and the most perfumes from Blue Bell diaphanity Floris, I had not felt the same happiness, fulfillment, gloriousness as I did with this Heavy, Cloying, Syrupy, Lethally Asphyxiative 1980s deft 'Hookerperfume' or costly Call Girl Confiture as I felt with this very Haughty, Hautain, as well Parisian as NY as L.A., perfume. this perfume keeps lingering sweet and promising Old School Richness around my head. the association with the as famous as notorious perfumes of the 1980s is apparent. how can we better rate a perfume than with the Experience of Happiness, Fullness, Commandment in Esthetic sense, Flowering Abundance, Resinous granularity, Feral underpinnings, Moss, Cypress, Myrthle, all lending a deep Forestrial Foundation. Cardamom, Coriander, Cloves (and with Carnation !), wafting a subtle as impressive orientalism along with all the other Luxe Ingredients. the Fruity Initiation of Plum and Peach is of such force that it densifies this fabulous perfume into Regal Realms. Roses, Carnation, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Tuberose, Iris & Orris, the Myrtle & Vanilla all contribute to the sheer Florality of this (now) Mythical perfume. Woodiness is given by Brazilian Rosewood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Orris, Myrtle, Cypress. this almost avant-garde mixxology works wonders and the perfume is coloured RED in its shining canister. I just wanted to revel in its Lively and Capricious Testament of the finetuned handicraft and Haute Joiallerie like attention for details incorporated within this heavenly Balm, Evaporable. the perfume is definitely comparable to the 1980s and 1990s Creeds (but particularly Fleur de Bulgarie & Irisia) [which English-French Maison does live up to either the expectations or whatever fucking expectations people have of it], Guerlains Nahéma (1979) and further without namedropping all the Presentist and Alarmist 1980s Perfumes. and with the same Hauteté and Raffinement of Chanels Coco (1985). another Unforgettable perfume it is comparable with is Gale Hayman's Beverly Hills (1990). Gem is really that 'Gem' in your collection which enhances certain features of your character. if you're such kind of person.
GEM
Step straight into the unapologetic glamour of the 1980s with Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels, a chypre-fruity masterpiece that completely redefines opulent perfumery. Crafted in 1987 by the legendary Roger Pellegrino, this fragrance is a brilliant celebration of excess, designed for those who prefer their scents complex, spicy, and absolutely unforgettable. The composition opens with a heavy, intoxicating pour of stewed plum and peach, sharply contrasted by the aromatic bite of cardamom, coriander, and Brazilian rosewood. As the initial fruitiness settles, a velvety, dark floral heart of tuberose, ylang-ylang, and spicy carnation takes over, giving the perfume a rich, almost theatrical texture. Down in the base, things get wonderfully feral. A vintage blend of civet, oakmoss, patchouli, and amber creates a deeply animalic, lingering warmth that clings to the skin well into the next day. Far from today's minimalist skin scents, Gem is a beautifully aggressive powerhouse that remains a timeless, fiercely independent classic of French extravagance.