Inlé

The fragrance evokes the crisp morning air, with the gentle citrus of bergamot interwoven with the slightly bitter herbs of armoise (mugwort) and the sparkle of mint. The true charm of this perfume lies in its star ingredient, osmanthus. Combining the fresh light of bergamot and the elegance of jasmine with the sweet fragrance of osmanthus, the allure of osmanthus comes to the forefront, creating a radiant glow reminiscent of the sacred sunrise reflecting on a lake at dawn. From beneath this brilliant floral base, the astringency and spice of tea leaf emerge, vividly depicting the warm climate and leisurely pace of life in Asia. As time passes, the powdery texture of iris softly envelops the entire fragrance, completing a deep and beautiful afterglow with the quiet tranquility of musk and cedarwood. It subtly hints at the coolness of morning within a warm climate. As time passes, the gentle, spreading scent of osmanthus leaves you with a peaceful feeling, like the sun softly enveloping the earth.

Mémo's 'Inlé' at first is a supersophisticated perfume with a champagne-like fizz of osmanthus foremost just like in Dusita's 'La Douceur de Siam'. where trabuquera describes it (very good) as a cloud of teaishness for the first ten minutes I can certainly affirm that; that and an enveloping aromatic mintish openfolding. the osmantus meanwhile gets creamier just like Dusita's one. I love white and indolic yellow-white flowers. here this indolic front is superhygienic (while I love J.A.R.'s Diamond Water, Dusita's Oudh Infini, Serge Lutens' Tubereuse Criminelle and Vitriol d'Oeillet) but the sanitary freshness makes this perfume so chic and timeless. Memo generates a lot of critique but with Lalibela (first), Luxor Oudh, French Leather and then Inlé I judge the brand to have a sophisticated portfolio, expensive but suffused with the real ingredients and all done with Parisian hauteté. I smell the lime now and the jasmine and it has a moment of similarity with Versaces 'Eros pour Femme' fleeting: happenstance I do not regret, I love Versace, vulgar and expensive for all the right and wrong reasons too. yet Memo is the expensive brand with the purified formulas also for the headier and smokier creations. Inlé is a perfume you have to grow into while I was also at once intrigued. this rather sharp Versace phase is interesting highlighting the lime, osmanthus and the maté to indeed, an affaire of le salon du thé. now, due to the comparison with Dusitas La Douceur de Siam, I learn about the tenacity of the osmanthus flower and how reinvigorating it must be to sense it in the tropics. jasmine definitely comes up and do I love jasmine ! of course the whole 'composition' bears originality and pizzazz. this is Alienor Massenets voyage to SE-Asia and we find the hypnotic quality cristallized in the scent of the Camellia fields (although in the perfume Maté is the teaish ingredient) dreamily wafting a far, far world with beautiful floral poetics buzzing around ones' head. I notice Inlé has quite some staying power and keeps emanating the osmanthus rather dynamically in covariance with how Dusitas osmanthus perfume unfolds and lingers on and....on. perfumes beautify our world and I am glad to have become (in four decades) a parfumista dadaistic as chic. (2018)