Review of Le Sillage Blanc by aad de gids

for some days now I am wearing DUSITA 'le sillage blanc', a definitely green and 'sec' perfume. inbetween this lush and persistent greenery, "light fell on us - a discreet light, making its paved way through the chill and dusty air, as I was reading your love", as Pissara Umavijani, foundress of DUSITA found inspiration for this perfume in the Siam, Thai, poetry of her famous father Montri Umavijani. promptly this perfume moves through 'chill and dusty' air footprinting more an olphactive identity with elegance and yet determination to detect the cigarette, lit between the morningleaves, the unmistakenbly scent of tobacco and hush of leather which sets a presence here, as it would have done with all those great chypre-tabaccoes in the past: Piguets 'Bandit', Carons 'Tabac Blonde' and Gres's 'Cabochard'. it is yet not imitation what we sense here, this perfume pays a sophisticated homage to the Garçonne, to Marlène Dietrich in a black dinner jacket and tights and the cigaretteholder elegantly swaying just so. the most astonishing feature of this perfume is that at the first spritz we immediately smell the scent of a just lit cigarette ! this makes the array of reminiscences only broader, as we think of Loulou, in the roaring twenties, Louise Brooks, of whom I had trouble finding her on a picture with a cigarette and whose cinematic name wasn't spelled 'Lulu' as I initially thought. that was the name of a Dior naillacquer of the 70s; like 'futur beige' and '220 volts'. then these two women cement the image of the selfspoken, emancipated women in the beginning of the last century, as also Gloria Swanson and mmes. Grès and Chanel themselves. the very genius of this perfume lays however in its own merits. it is very persevering, as I layed ( ! ) the next morning still sniffing my wrist. the leather may come from an elegantly cut pantalon of Adrian, Edith Heath or Jean Louis. leather, tobacco, greeneries; we enter the colognes of the gents yet this perfume is definitely feminine. galbanum that Persian umbelliferum with its bitter tones, broadened by oakmoss (sans IFRA regulated irritants) yet drawn so vehemently unto the floor of the woods. like Orizas 'Chypre Mousse'. Chanels 'Bois des Isles' without however too much coziness... any bitterness from artemisia becomes chanelled unto a garden, with lush tobacco, ambrette, a waxy patchouli and the enfleurage incorporating Montri's 'light' in the neroli and orange blossom, feminizing the perfume. anew I am overwhelmed by this genius 'parfumeuse' and an already legendary Maison de Parfums DUSITA.