Review of First Eau de Toilette by aad de gids

well, what is here NOT to love ... this perfume is at once iconic in the first whiff. and I remember having it already then. I also once had the perfume of which I can clearly remember the scent but not the Vaporisateur. the perfume I had taken with me to a funeral not, as last, when my sweet friend Bertha had died (nov., 5th, 2024) wearing Montales Crazy In Love. no the parfum FIRST of van Cleef & Arpels seemed piously at place, radiating an Ultrasophisticated and Demurely Flowery perfume around me. just with that Lily opulence reminescing to Death and Mourning. (Jasmine and Ylang) now I have a Luxe Vaporisateur for 3oz90mL Edp with Chic Goldtone Pillar of Elegance. NOT for small handbags and even if I am a gay male, I would never carry a handbag. I remember having sensed the 'First' Perfume in the 1980s and she was nowhere out of place. bc I can have written 'a Demurely Flowery' Appearance, it must be the Jean-Claude Ellena touch of not too extravagant radiance nor sillage. and yet it has that too but the perfume manages to keep into its own Aldehydic, Hesperidic, Floral Presence without the Camp, Drama and Hysterics of Giorgio, Obsession and Poison. the Perfume does have drama which it seems to carry innately and precariously within itself as to somehow keep within the relative house of certain Conventions. which makes this perfume comparable to the grande Dame No5. the Crispness and Sophistication and Allure make out the specificity of this perfume. I must think the most at Oscar de la Renta's Oscar of which I also had the perfume. there are definitely similarities. the abundance of flowers is what defines these perfumes. still the grounding effect of Oakmoss, Musk, Civet, Honey, Sandelwood, Amber, Tonka and Vanilla. (and Vetiver.) there are no quirks or something tilted or awkward here. it is a well-blended harmonious version of Concentrated Nature in a Jardin Clôs or an Empty Quarter of the Jardins des Versailles. somehow these Haute Joailleriers always make the best perfumes. this of course is a Classic, Iconic, Haute Parfum to walk by the Windows in the Place Vendôme, Rue de Rivoli and the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. (and Rue Montaigne.) this perfume Assures you as much as you give it Présence. the Mystique of perfume works in fine rivulets as well as in Aplomb deliveries. yet 'First' stays characteristic in its famed Crispness, Insane Demureness and Paradoxical features. plus, the drydown proves to be much more dirty than I had expected and it is here, that the Civet appears with Pissy Tones and Furry Growls. the Aldehydes keep dancing throughout the entire wear and the flowers show a certain wiltedness, all, factors I can only dream of, or, and, wear again with this perfume. (later) this perfume manifests itself initially with its broad array of separate notes. First by Van Cleef & Arpels 1976 Jean-Claude Ellena I have in a Luxe Goldtoned Vaporisateur of 3oz90mL Edp. when spritzed on three Pulsepoints I just wait until the alcohol is evaporated. I have good reason to assume this perfume is either still from the 1980s or elsewise, from the 1990s. it is in good quality. the separate notes are at first the Aldehydes, the Fruits (of which I am lately so surprised to actually being able to smell them!) Bergamot, Peach, Black Currant, Mandarin Orange and Raspberry, I would say especially the Peach and Citruses while the Raspberry and Black Currant add to the Juicy and Aldehydic Opening. this was Jean-Claude Ellena early on in his Career. I was never a fan of his barely-there minimalist creations (Hermèssences nor Hermès's Jardins) while here he apparently did embrace a more Flamboyant, Affluent and Maximalist style. then the Flowers come in and neither gives way to another: Narcissus, Hiacynth, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Carnation, YlangYlang, Orris Root, Tuberose, Turkish Rose and Orchid. immediately the very distinguishable DNA of First starts to form lending all these still superbly individualistic Notes a Sophistication and Demure (Ellena !) approach. this is a very Classy and Distinctive Perfume. still in the fase of distinguishability the separate basenotes build a duvet for the Initial Notes to land: Civet, Oakmoss, Honey, Amber, Musk, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Tonka Bean and Vanilla. I would say Oakmoss, Civet, Honey, the Woods, Turkish Roses, Carnations, Jasmine, Narcissus and Orris Root then send forward a rich, Powdered Affaire throughout the Perfume. the Top Notes were there to lure anyone in, as it is inescapable. then after a while the perfume seems more blended and is morphing into an Exquise and Wonderfully Elegant perfume, never to diminish her well-heeled foot on the floor. this is a Classic Perfume of Refinement and Beauty. any woman (man) wearing this, will stand out. (new) from this fragrance I had several times the perfume and my feeling always coincided it with First by van Cleef & Arpels (also 1976). this last perfume was to my amazement concipiated by Jean-Claude Ellena, a perfumer that never touched my soul. except then, with First. Oscar de la Renta (I think the perfume is correctly named as such) is composed by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and I now see it is from 1977. I made images from the respective notes, from both of these perfumes which I deeply adore and love. and then, in such 'comparative research', you see that there are similarities but perhaps more, differences. Oscar (as I now also shall abbreviate it) has far more Spices and Herbs. Coriander, Cloves, even Basil, Lavender, Rosemary, again Cloves & again Lavender, Opoponax & Patchouli. none of these Notes sit in van Cleef & Arpels' First. perhaps it is now best to name the similarities in Notes. Bergamot, Peach, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Orchid, [Iris vs. Orris], Sandelwood, Musk, Amber & Vetiver. I think the likenness then (for me) sits in the use of Flowers whereas I am a huge Flower Person. Vetiver, Sandelwood & Amber perhaps give these perfumes kind of a similar Backbone. both perfumes feel Rich, Opulent, Extremely Sophisticated (due to perhaps the Iris-Orrises). where a Carnation enriches First, Oscar has the (double) Cloves. First has Civet, Honey & Oakmoss the Sylvestrian (even Junglian) Accents of which maybe are approached with the Plethora on Spices and Herbs in Oscar. these are all Desiderata which are as fun and informative as also redundant and speculative. and each perfume lands in its own way into someones Nasal Receptors as also, Heart & Soul. so Ellena did touched my soul. strangely all the other (Masterpieces, undoubtedly) perfumes for Hermès for me feel inept, Gouache-like indeed, Suggestions of Smells in Empty Spaces. versus Gouaches I like thick Oil-Paintings that are Absolutist, Brutalist, Irreversibel. yet the Opulence, Wealth and Utter Mannerist Femininity radiate from both perfumes, to my good luck !