Review of Tubereuse Criminelle by aad de gids

Tubereuse Criminelle

Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens (1999)

92 /100
(1 review)
AG
Review by aad de gidsAlchemist
smell100 member since February 2026 · 168 reviews
92 /100
3 SPRAYS (8h)
Vibes:Spicy (95%) Floral (92%) Musky (89%) Woody (85%) Metallic (78%) Resinous (77%) Balsamic (60%)
Occasions:👕 Daily
Seasons:☀️ summer
Gender: female
Value:Fair Value

Tubéreuse Criminelle was bought directly with Vitriol d'Oeillet because of THEIR NAMES and this dates my acquirement at 2010, the date 'Vitriol' was launched. yesterday I posted on the 'Vitriol' and now I have spritzed on Tubéreuse Criminelle. what immediately struck me, and the commenter before me noted this feauture, that the initial blast was less mentholated as I absolutely remember from 2010. then it was shocking and almost off-putting (yet not to me) that a Tubereuse perfume could emphasize this trait of the White Lady to such extend that it was almost choking. However I was immediately enamoured with it. something has happened between c. 2010 and now and that must have been maceration, riping, oxygenation. the mentholated feature isn't gone fully, but seems less infringeingly so. what I now smell is the heady, heavy indolic flower almost to the point of wilthed. precisely how I like my Roses, Jasmines, Tubéreuses Tuberoses, Pittosporum, OrangeFlower, LemonBlossom, Lilies and L.o.t.Valleys to be, as Witches of Seduction and Wrath. I also searched what it was, is, exactly that causes this mentholated smell. I came out at the Indoles, roaming free. the Cloves and Styrax which cause spikey moments. then my eye fell upon the nutmeg. what I remember from 2010 is the outstanding and to a certain degree assaulting note of menthol, camphor, which at first distorted my sense of 'this is how a bad-ass Tuberose smells'. and I like flowers to be at their baddest. but somehow the 'maceration' from 2010-2025 have made the Tubereuse not softer, didn't wipe the menthol, camphor away, but it is more integrated within the overall fluidum of perfume. so it seems an even more oversatiated flower, it has become (if it not already were) a dense, walling, segregating perfume and it was perfect and now it is even more perfect.

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