Review of irisia by aad de gids

this again is such unbelievably powerful chypre. the perfume shall have seasoned in the sense that I bought it around 2000, and in the sense that it ripened, macerated further in vitro, in the meanwhile also as legendary known artefect of a 'Creed's Woman Perfume', in such ladylike bottle which they were keen now to all replace them with a singular model. I do not have special feelings with that. even if it is more economical and less ideosyncratic and feminine as the unique and elegant flacon. I am still able to enjoy the strong Irisia perfume and strong it is. what I keep wondering is what it is I smell in the sense that I smell a development of notes or I smell this Monolith Wall of Chypric, Mossy, Ambergris and Patchouli or, and, the sheer violence of the used Iris, Violet, Mimosa and Tuberose. if you spray this perfume it immediately hits you in the face much as the (in)famous heavy and heady 1980s perfumes did. I remember smelling it in the late 1990s when Creed suddenly bursted on the scene in (sparse) Niche Perfumeries with already then 'wilthed boxes', so, older as that they were just delivered new. I was totally aghast, even if my favorite perfume decade is the 1980s, I remember where and when in the Hague, I smelled (and bought) first Irisia and Fleur de Bulgarie, then Jasmal and Jasmin d'Impératrice Eugénie and later on still Vanisia, Tuberose Indiana, etc. from Irisia and Fleur de Bulgarie I bought them in, luckily. this perfume had me stopped in my tracks and I also remember looking at the fascinating and very posh packagings, also those of the Men's perfumes. with Irisia you smell suddenly all, all at once. it was that way also in the (late) 1990s. and it befell me hugely. I guess it is a Woody, Flowery, Mossy and Patchouli, but especially rounded with the Ambergris uniquely sophisticated and present perfume. I immediately feel me like myself and then, more. it is as with those other chypres that stand like skyscrapers: Y, No19, Knowing, Estée, Ivoire, Cabochard, Eau du Soir, Soir de Lune, Eau de Campagne (Sisley, all), Mitsouko, Caléche, etcetera etcetera. they possess a coldness as well as an inimpenetrability and this last quality is perhaps best incorporated within this very perfume Irisia. Peach as one of the few fruits I can detect in perfumes, plus the Amber (next to Ambergris), the Patchouli, Sandelwood and Cedar lend both austerity as a heavenly Clôche of perfume so dense and asphyxiating I revel every microsecond in it. (this posted earlier that same year, as dissociated as intensely. thus there are now two reviews [in fragrantica] standing following one other, lovely crazy.) this is a fantastic perfume. it possesses all the traits of a great Chypre, an Iris and a somptuous Bouquet of Flowers perfume. at first you get hit as with a Freight train with the very present oakmoss in copious amounts. and also immediately the cold and superelegant dosage of Iris which gives the perfume austerity, subtraction but not in the least an Under Appreciation while already these notes torsion with each other to throw up these metallic and yet supernatural impressions of a dreamscape that just has begun. slowly some more flowers appear as the mimosa and violet, the tuberose in deftly diluted shyness. yet it becomes apparent the initial upbeaming of an enormous Wall of Moss, Ambergris, Iris and I guess the peach and bergamot are here to billow out and not easily nor soon are going to stay in the flacon. the soul of Irisia has escaped from the bottle and isn't anywhere anytime going away soon. and this is lovely. at least for 1980s Hooker Perfume lovers. and as such am I. Irisia sits with Fleur de Bulgarie, Jasmin d'Impératrice Eugénie, Jasmal and then other sisters Nahéma and Gem, also No.5 and Coco in the edge of very presentist yet chic and oh so sophisticated perfumes. while there ain't no roses in this Creation it certainly shares the Utmost arresting presence with her sister Fleur de Bulgarie. then if 'the Wall' somewhat resides (hours and hours in) the most delicate and lingering traces of powderiness and layeredness come forward. this is a somewhat older perfume for sure. yet for me this is the Actuality and stills my thirst for super alarmist Flowering and towering Lady perfumes as they make sure you exist.