Review of Gabrielle Chanel Essence by aad de gids

the term 'solar perfume' I first encountered in Paris,when Hermès's '24, Rue Feaubourg' came out. there is something from that, in this. with the term 'prismatic perfume' I became known when I bought Chanel's 'Allure' with a nice booklet. it meant that all the notes came in your face not, following the rules of a 'perfume pyramid' but more compartmentalized without borders.... there is something from that,in this. this is without doubt a beautiful perfume and a perfume with that particular 'chanellissime'. it also reminds me of the unending (and lovely) tenure of Calvin Kleins 'Eternity'. that perfume stayed the same, even if WW III would have broken out. now I loved Calvin Klein, for his fashion, and for 'Obsession'. I loved Eternity but the sillage went on, and on, and on.almost ad nauseam. it was a white flower bomb. there is something from that, in this. also reckognizing that these perfumes ('Gabrielle' and 'Gabrielle essence') do good at the Asian Markets. I maintain that this is an excellent perfume. it gives that pillowy, billowing sensation of an almost aching mémoire, while the notes combine in groups and the perfume is so well blended that you can barely tell them apart. the fruits citruses, peach, red fruits, black current and the écorce petitgrain come in a cluster, and not only that, they already foreshadow the coming of the white flowers. for me it is very difficult to distnguish in particular the blackcurrant. which, for me, would have been allowed to give off its pissy note. yet one can sense that the peach-citrus orientation would have been different without it. there is some piquancy there. yet in the Diana Vreelands it flies to the ceiling separate. one must consider the aim of this perfume was, to give 'Gabrielle' more body, more length and boldness and presence. that is succeeded without doubt. already 'Gabrielle' had that 'one flow' floating along. but here it is richer, fuller, not impertinent, not rauckous. but it is a Chanel perfume. then about the comparison with Diors 'Adore' I have the 'Dior. Infinissime'. that is a beautiful perfume. yet somehow in the j'Adores there is something sour. I do not think that it is a sister to Gabrielle. 'Adore Infinissime' puts a Grasse tubereuse in its center. now already that is a detropicalized tubereuse. I love Serge Lutens' 'Tubereuse Criminelle'. it has a strongly and disorienting mentholated whiff. this is unthinkable in Gabrielle. they have Sycomore, Paris-Edimbourg, they have Boy. Chanel Gabrielle Essence is every inch a lady, not a hooker. it could have been a high-end call girl Madison Ave, Boulevard Haussman et cetera. but perhaps we have the original and underrated (or, not) 'Coco' for that, sister of Giorgio, Poison, Obsession, Knowing, Y and no.19 etc. this is your neat woman in the Chanel deux-pièces, who lunches with the ladies who lunch. in Paris, Moscou, London, Tokyo, Sao Paulo and New York. as for the imput of the white flowers and Y-Ylang, with even a note of (indistinguishable) 'white flowers', there is an indolic almost triste, accent in the clouding of the perfume. they have deliberately not chosen for Gabrielle in whichever strength to become a Giorgio or a Vero Kerns 'Rubj' in all its orange flower-civet pungency. this all makes Gabrielle yet a fluff of a perfume, this time more strong and dense. and I love it. the flacon is a work of art. now if you want to drop dead (and I want) by wilthed indoles you must try J.A.R.'s, either 'Diamond Water' or 'Jardenia' or Dusitas 'Mélodie d'Amour'. or Oriza L. Legrands 'Marions-Nous.