Review of Bois Datchaï by Olga Steinfeld

Maison Crivelli has never been one of my favorite brands. Almost a year ago, I wrote a critical review of its Olfactory Experiences collection. But a few days ago, I found myself thinking about it again because I realized these fragrances might actually work well for summer. As I was revisiting the collection, I suddenly understood what had bothered me about these fragrances: they lacked a clear structure. I love fragrance pyramids and enjoy watching one note replace another - it's like making a small discovery every time. But the fragrances in the Olfactory Experiences collection aren't about pyramids. They're about images and impressions. When I tested them again, I ended up liking two fragrances, especially Bois Datchaï. I find it difficult to break it down into individual notes - they seem to appear randomly and blend into one cohesive accord. So what impressions does it give me? The fragrance opens with a burst of juicy wild berries that quickly turn tart. Then its woody side begins to emerge, and I get the image of a wine barrel: damp and slightly smoky wooden planks soaked with berry juice. The transformation happens quickly, and the fragrance becomes drier and more balsamic. Every now and then I notice a peppery nuance and a cool sensation, but they disappear just as quickly. Then a calm, slightly puckering note appears - I suspect it's the tea. In the drydown, it becomes a warm, woody, balsamic fragrance with echoes of berries and smoke. It settles close to the skin quite quickly, with almost no trail. According to Crivelli, Bois Datchaï is meant to evoke drinking tea around a campfire in the forest. I would describe it as the scent of spiced tea. There is also a calm, soft note that I can't quite identify. Its texture reminds me of milk - soft and gentle, but without a creamy smell. Throughout the day, the berry note comes and goes, becoming more or less noticeable.