Review of L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum by aad de gids

how could Jacques Guerlain have concipiated such achingly beautiful perfume? a perfume that is as mysterious as esthetically refined, as mystical as also a wealth of flowers, resins and fruits. a perfume that embodies both the fin de siecle as (1912) the start of a new centennium, a perfume that is easily to be considered along with its sisters Shalimar (1925), Mitsouko (1919) (all, Jacques Guerlain) and Jicky (1889 Aimé Guerlain). I think with l'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko Jacques created a mystic, mysterious and shimmering painting of beauty and lament. to layer this in a perfume you have to be a genius. I find this quality also embodied in Chanel No5, Bois des Iles (all 1920s) No22 and Cuir de Russie. if these perfumes carry a dose of their times in them, they are not solely joyful but also vivid (or morbid) with secret poches of sadness, austerity (iris and orris), making use of the many faces of the rose. l'Heure Bleue especially convocates the athmosphere of an evening éternelle. yet there are points of light, lamps, candles, the moon. l'Heure Bleue breathes swaths of fleetingness, memories, lost loves but also celebrated loves. yet it isn't always easy to love. the pain in the heart testifies to true love. this exactly is the point within Mitsouko and l'Heure Bleue. with natural material, all the jardinieres of flowers and orchards of fruit and blossoming trees, some herbs along the path. these perfumes are as sober as they are complex, layered and rich. les Miroirs des Mémoires. with the acidic hesperidic opening, notwithstanding with anise and coriander (they have once typified coriander as 'smelling like mandarines, tangerines'), there is given way to this glorious guirlandes of flowers. an endless drunkenness like the bee, hovering above the jasmine and roses, the heliotrope and ylang ylang. especially the heliotrope gives this powdery, hovering aspect further made elegant with roses and jasmine. the resins and cloves give it earth. however much we can sum up the notes, incorporated is a sadness that enriches and lament existence nevertheless without ever letting go on life. this perfume is bewitchingly alluring and haute, haute luxe. I regret to not have sniffed more in the 1970s at Jicky. then I already had Shalimar, l'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko. from Shalimar the parfum in that hauntingly alluring flacon. but I guess l'Heure Bleue is the most mysterious, the saddest while also in that, affirmative and 'fuming and choreographing the path'.