Review of Poison Esprit de Parfum by aad de gids

jaguarundina 04/05/25 06:51 thank you for the memories Patric ! (Rhys) .you have described the 40 years celebrating lady very well. as I am from 1957 and started visiting perfumeries in 1974, as the gay half of a twin with my Straight brother I started sniffing men's colognes and immediately decided they were not for me (I remember Jules, Pour Monsieur, a Givenchy Pour Monsieur, which were lovely but not for me) I came to Chanel No5, I would say closer still to the original with civet and that was a heavenly perfume. the Guerlains especially Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue which coveted my attention. these were all pre-IFRA and I fysically remember (in retrograde) how these perfumes smelled. little did I know what was to come... yet since I also started to read Vogue US & Vogue Paris (and Harpers Bazaar US) I always had a preview of what was to come. first it was 'Giorgio Beverly Hills' in 1981 and I was absolutely smitten while the whole Avenue in Rotterdam was asphyxiated by its unbelievably heady and hefty perfume. all those (clashing) ingredients and thousands of stupendously mixed and waveringly emitting notes were luring me into their realms. as with Poison (1985 but I always have the memory of somewhat earlier) there is tuberose and jasmine but also Roses. and of course these are all flowers fighting for attention. inbetween came still Obsession which I also immediately closed in my heart (where it didn't stayed but escaped [not alluding to Calvin klein's perfume]) onto Clôches of perfume around the wearer (ess). I can vividly remember the launch of Giorgio, where the whole boulevard was intoxicated, then Obsession and then still Poison. in my memories these three evil sisters are forever connected. particularly with Poison which I had in esprit de parfum 30ml in dab flaconettes. (I still have the empty bottles) it isn't only an Apple, but also a Flacon with Poison ! I try to remember what struck me the most. yes the Tuberose, the Plum (I am a bad sniffer in fruits, often they glide along me but with plums I have a special sensorium I think). Plums were also in Boucheron Jaipur which I also immediately embraced. also with Apricots and Peaches I am inclined to pick these out. Mitsouko's peach, which I forgot to mention. so the Plum, the Tuberose but also the Rose and Jasmine. then Quentin Bisch-like, also immediately the Incense, (I guess) the Cloves, Cinnamon and Pepper did interfere with the opening notes. with especially these perfumes it was the immediate Blast, Thermo Nuclear Aroma Troposphere Beam, which cleared and etched the nostrils and much to my mom's and mine, pleasure and well, Lust. Poison had a particular pinch, where Edouard Fléchier had mingled all those ingredients (and I have learned at Fragrantica that this is a complex event, not at all linear or in addition with each other plus the aromachemical supports [to which I am amnostic but have learned that they can support and push the more 'natural' ingredients forward and make the whole billowing and meteorological]), now, all these ingredients were somehow concentrated in a Super Hefty Emission straight upward from your pulsepoints. as was the case with all the 1980s Hooker Perfumes which I all acquired and double, also for my mom. in 1985 Chanel came with Coco - what a phenomenal, oriental (but Karl Lagerfeld said it was an Oriental perfume from off Venice) and also a Rose and Incense and Peach, Cloves and Civet centered perfume. Poison then still had Honey, Coriander, Anise (L'Heure Bleue), Amber and Heliotrope, contributing to its powderiness as also a White Flowers' 'wilthedness' quality which note I absolutely crave for. I also mention Knowing, Moschino Parfum de toilette, Christian Lacroix' C'Est la Vie, indeed Opium (1977) and Paris which was absolutely sharp but so lovely 'parisiennely' abundant with roses, roses, roses. Bijan 273 Beverly Hills, 'Giorgio Beverly Hills RED' and Beautiful. (Cartiers Must and Panthere) but it was the infamy and blasfemy which connected the trias Obsession - Poison - Giorgio. these were so loud alarmist and presentist than it was fabulous to have contributed to it and in hindsight, have such dear 375x500.5225.jpg Giorgio Beverly Hills Red 375x500.5225.jpg Giorgio Beverly Hills Red memories of this perfumial stratoscape. v.Cleef&Arpels First, Gem, Guerlains Nahéma, Fleur de Bulgarie, Irisia and Jasmin d'Impératrice Eugénie but also Jasmal from Creed. these were my cup of tea and since, they are the golden standard against which (witch) I measure a perfume. thereafter came the 1990s and as a perfume decade it meant nothing to me except that some of the most vile and heady perfumes were also launched. Vivienne Westwoods Boudoir, Donna Karan by Donna Karan, Gale Hayman Beverly Hills (I guess these were all launched ca 1990). then around 2000 Mahora from Guerlain. and then, in 2003, Montale came into my life, and Oud. but to not digress (while all digressions were related to Poison) this was an